The Rock Hound Talks Circularity at COP28 UAE and How She Is Using Silver Repurposed From NHS X-Rays

On Monday 11th December, Susi Smither, the Founder and Creative Director of British ethical jewellery brand The Rock Hound, took part in an illuminating panel discussion at Extreme Hangout COP28, talking about circularity within the fashion industry.
Mainstream fashion is lightyears away from being sustainable, but it is beginning to pivot to circularity. Susi spoke about how she is thinking about circularity within the jewellery industry, and revealed her latest sustainable initiative that involves using the recycled silver locked away in retired NHS X-rays.

“The jewellery industry is inherently unsustainable since we are extracting the Earth’s natural resources of precious metals and gemstones, however recycling these fungible materials is possible. Gold and silver can be melted down and refined an infinite number of times and reformed with no loss in quality, and gemstones can be unset to be used again. Circularity is beginning to be spoken about in fashion, but in jewellery it has always been the case since virtually all of the precious metals and stones are still in circulation in one form or another,” explains Susi. “However, with little regulation it’s hard to ensure no newly mined metal is entering the supply chain, so I was hunting for a traceable supply of recycled silver. What I discovered not only ticked that box but went further by helping a separate sector solve their waste issue.”

Susi teamed up with precious metal specialists, The Betts Group, who launched their AgAIN silver repurposing project from X-ray films in September 2022. The film undergoes a chemical process that dissolves the silver it contains, leaving clear plastic PET which can then be recycled separately. The extracted silver then undergoes an electroplating process for approximately three weeks, culminating in the production of a silver bar that is approximately 96% pure. The final refining step utilises silver nitrate to dissolve the silver from the bar and re-plate it into 100% pure silver.

Whilst using recycled silver for years, The Rock Hound now only casts it 100% from this traceable source of salvaged X-rays, such as within the HotRocks Collection.

Betts’ Managing Director, Charlie Betts explains “At the core of The Betts Group’s strategy lies a commitment to responsible business practice and especially responsible sourcing. As a proudly British family-run business, we passionately champion small, independent enterprises. Over the years, we’ve observed that these businesses often exhibit a profoundly considered approach to how they operate and how they source materials, and are often mindful of how they can affect change for the better within the industry. This ethos is beautifully exemplified by The Rock Hound, and Susi’s exemplary dedication to creating a positive impact. I personally believe that responsible sourcing choices need to be available to everyone in the jewellery industry and not simply to those with the greatest financial clout.”

Susi was on the panel alongside Coco Panazza of Cercle, Tanya Mulesa of Cicon, Manny Jackson of Thread Haus Co., and Emma Barber of DGrade, moderated by fashion industry veteran and sustainability change-maker, Mary Fellowes, Founder of GreenWith Studio.